Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25th Anniversary Show

For 25 years, Sabyasachi Mukherjee has defined and redefined Indian couture, bringing heritage craftsmanship to the global stage. His silver jubilee celebration, held at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai, was more than just a fashion show; it was an immersive experience, a love letter to Calcutta, and a statement of intent for the future of luxury fashion.

Stepping into the venue felt like entering a different era. The space was transformed into a vision of old Kolkata, complete with moss-covered colonial pillars, khorkhori windows, and a grand water fountain reminiscent of the Victoria Memorial. Faux taxidermied tigers and vintage carpets set the stage for a collection that celebrated Sabyasachi’s origins.

The music, a carefully curated blend of Bengali classics by Asha Bhosle and Lata Mangeshkar alongside Leonard Cohen and Usha Uthup, heightened the nostalgia. This was not merely a setting—it was a time capsule, transporting guests to the heart of Sabyasachi’s muse: Calcutta.

Moving beyond bridal opulence, Sabyasachi’s latest collection was a masterclass in maximalism and contrast. The ensembles showcased 157 meticulously crafted looks, each telling a story of global influences seamlessly merged with Indian artistry.

Japanese cotton met pashmina, zardozi embroidery adorned bombers, and sequined t-shirts bore evocative phrases like “Where Has the Love Gone” and “Please Stay.” The rich textures and layered embellishments proved that Sabyasachi remains a visionary in blending tradition with modernity.

The collection was not just about clothing—it was an experience of excess, luxury, and unapologetic grandeur. Velvet appliques found their way onto oversized coats, mini skirts shimmered in sequins, and faux fur draped over elaborate silhouettes. Each look was complemented by accessories from his fine jewelry line, with oversized tinted glasses, decadent necklaces, and bejewelled trench coats making bold statements.

The guest list was a reflection of Sabyasachi’s influence. Bollywood royalty, including Alia Bhatt, Sonam Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, Aditi Rao Hydari, and Bipasha Basu, graced the event.

Deepika, making her runway comeback after the birth of her daughter, stunned in a white power suit paired with bold jewelry and black leather gloves, exuding a Madonna-meets-Frida-Kahlo aesthetic. Sonam Kapoor, known for her fearless fashion choices, opted for an embroidered black couture ensemble, while Alia Bhatt kept it classic in an embellished black saree.

Global fashion insiders, including French stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele and Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo, traveled across continents to witness the spectacle. Fargo, in awe of the presentation, aptly described Sabyasachi as more than a designer: “He is an emissary of Indian luxury.”

Sabyasachi’s journey from a small workshop in Kolkata to an international luxury brand is nothing short of legendary. With a modest loan of 20,000 rupees, he built an empire that now employs over 3,000 artisans. His brand represents more than just clothing—it encapsulates history, heritage, and a narrative deeply rooted in India’s cultural richness.

A defining moment in his career came when fashion icon Joan Burstein of Browns London discovered his collection, ‘Frog Princess,’ a poignant critique of societal beauty standards. This catapulted him onto the global stage, but his ultimate success came when he turned back to his roots.

As fashion critic Suzy Menkes once advised him, “Conquer India first.” He took that advice to heart, revolutionizing Indian bridal fashion and making it synonymous with Sabyasachi’s name.

While his past is deeply entwined with India’s heritage, Sabyasachi’s vision is firmly set on the future. His goal is clear: to position India as a global luxury leader. “Luxury started here, it belongs here, and it should come back here,” he declared at the show. His expansion into jewelry and accessories is a testament to this ambition. With India poised to become a major player in the luxury market by 2040, he is ensuring that its craftsmanship remains at the forefront.

The 25th-anniversary show was more than just a milestone—it was a statement of purpose. As Christy Turlington closed the show in a minimalist yet jewel-laden ensemble, it became evident that Sabyasachi is not just looking back at his past but boldly stepping into the future. He is not merely a designer; he is a storyteller, a custodian of heritage, and a visionary shaping the trajectory of Indian luxury on the global map.

As the lights dimmed and the audience erupted into applause, one thing was clear: this was not just a fashion show—it was history in the making. And for Sabyasachi, this is just the beginning.